North Queensland Bouldering
North Queensland Bouldering
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AREAS
To get to the area follow Harvey’s Rd out of town, past Willows shopping Center, and follow it for about 35 minutes. After this time you will reach the range. Follow the road up the range, and just under 1km after you reach the top take the first road on your L. It is marked appropriately with a massive boulder perched above the road on your L just before the turn off, and there is also an old ‘TABLETOP’ sign. Follow this dirt Rd, which turns back to bitumen as it passes up another small range, until you reach the army gate across the road. Park on your L, leaving enough room for the gates to open and large trucks to get through. All descriptions for the different areas start from the top of the road embankment on your L. Walk up the obvious track, passing under a single strand of barb wire. With your back to the road, you should be able to see the hill of the upper terrace directly ahead. Take a moment with the overall topo, to familiarize yourself with where things are.
The Cow Paddock. A good area with lots of moderate problems, mostly shortish, but a few higher ones as well, and generally some superb rock. Make sure you do the Bum Crack V1, while The Good Wife V6, is one of the best problems at Harvey’s. Heaps of nice problems on excellent rock makes the Cow Paddock one of the best beginner and moderate areas. Access to the Cow Paddock is fairly simple, and you should suffice on the topo alone. However if all else fails, below are some instructions. · Looking from the top of the road embankment with your back to the road, follow the obvious track down R. · Follow this track passing a couple of small to medium boulders on your R after about 150m. The arete with the chunky undercling is the Lunge V2, not actually in the cow paddock, but still worth repeating. Just L starting from the low break is Jug to Jug, also V2, and there is another V2 just R of the Lunge, starting from the jug on the arête. · From these boulders continue along the track for about another 100m or so, until there is an obvious bunch of boulders on your R. This is the Cow Paddock. Once there try to identify the Bum Crack, as this is useful in locating other problems. The problem is on the far side of a roundish boulder, and is not so much a crack but an overlapping seam splitting the boulder. The problem itself is about 3.5m high and is basically in the middle of the Cow Paddock, and slightly isolated from any other descent sized boulders, as well as being at approximately the highest point in the Cow Paddock. BOULDER #1 See individual topo. A great Boulder with some amazing rock quality. (A) **** Bum Crack V1 Balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top and a pleasent top out. Classic. Madoc Sheehan, 1999 (B) ** Bum Crack Sit Start V3 As for above, only with the obvious sit start. Steve Baskerville, 2000 (C) ** Escape from the Sphincter V7 Start as for the Bum Crack sit start, only go up and across diagonally L to finish up as for Harry Houdini’s Hand Holds V4 (Problem G), via a tough and thin traverse. Not marked on topo. SB, 2003 (D)* The Right Cheek V6 Start 2m R of the bum crack with a high slopey LH pinch, and a bad lower RH hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the LH start hold if your are too short. Not marked on topo. SB, 2003 (E) * Pull Hard V1/2 Crank through steep wall from slopes on lip. Starts off the flake embedded in the ground. Or alternatively start without the flake (V3), start just L with LH sidepull (V3/4) or start way R at problem F and traverse L (V4). MS, 1999 (F) Unnamed V2 Slab R of above problem up slight corner. MS, 1999 (G) * Harry Houdini’s Hand Holds V4 Starts 1m L of The Bum Crack. Up from cluster of small edges to slopey pinch and a hard mantle. MS, 2002 BOULDER #2 (A) * The Knob V0 Fun, balancy moves up this short wall, starting off the obvious sidepull. Can be done using various eliminates as well as one handed, and has been done as a classic hands free problem! Sarah Sheehan, 1999 BOULDER #3 The largest boulder in the Cow Paddock. Half a dozen or so lines left on this boulder, including the prize face just L of The Good Wife. (A) * The Elevator V1 Up on nice flakes. Start in the middle of the wall, moving R to the top. Downclimb, (This is the descent route from this boulder). MS, 1999 * Unnamed V1 Not marked on topo. The RH arete of the Elevator V1 wall. SB, 03 (B) * Family Values V2 Sustained slab just R of steep blank section. Step onto slab from boulders. Bad landing and scary. MS, 2001 1.5m R ** Unnamed V1 High Slab with a tricky start and a balancy finish. Not marked on topo. MS, 2004 1.5m R (C) * Marriage Vows V1 Fine slab with a reachy move at the top. Starts in the middle/right of the wall and heads via a good RH sidepull for a cluster of good edges. MS, 2000. On the opposite side of the boulder. The obvious line in the middle of the steep wall. (D) **** The Good Wife V6 Super Classic. Steep highball face on good edges and sidepulls, just L of the obvious flake, with the crux at the top. Standing start off the pair of chunky edges. Superb!! MS, 2001 **** The Divorce V7 Does bouldering get any better? Starts 2m L of the Good Wife. Up following the line of edges and scoops to a crux very near the top, and (thankfully) a cruisy mantle. Strong contender for Harvey's best problem. Not marked on topo. Nick Larsen, 2004 (E) * The Oddity V4-6 Interesting. Start by establishing yourself on the detached block beneath the L leaning overhung arête. Now move R and onto the vertical face, going up this and at the good flake. Try not to head-but the rock like I did. Varient: Start from ground level and go up the LH side of the vertical face, just R of the block and arête, (V1, SB) SB, 2003 BOULDER # 4 The obvious high arête is still unclimbed, just be careful of any wasp nests on the face R. (A) The Family Outing V1 Up and down route up the obvious easiest slab. MS, 2000 Just L * Unnamed V5 Featured Rib of holds up the slab. Footwork intensive. Not marked on topo. Nick Larsen, 2004
BOULDER # 5 There are also a few short mantles and sit starts on this boulder. Unnamed Traverses Some short traverses on the side of the boulder facing the bum crack. (A) Sit start at LH end of steep section, moving R and topping out at highest point (V2, SB). (B) Alternatively start way around R and traverse L to the start of A, and top out L, (*V5, SB). Reverse it for for a nice V4. BOULDER #6 (A) ** Miss Franjapenny V2 Great dynamic Sit Start off the rocking boulder. SB, 2000 (B) Bedraggled V3 Steep sit start below the obvious flake and up. Sharp. V0 without the sit start and more pleasant. SB, 2002 BOULDER # 7 (A) *Kasia’s Revenge V3 Another fun sit start with a tricky first move and actually easier for those with a height impairment. Jason Shaw, 2000 BOULDER # 8 (A) * Flappers for Free V3 Start sitting on the block below the short face and slab. Start 1.5m L of the tree, hanging off the LH arete and small crimp on the face. Up to hold on slab and finish moving up and L. SB, 2001 1mR (B) The 5 O’clock Surprise V2 Mantle onto short slab using the one obvious good hold. Not marked on topo. Climb it at 5 O’clock and find out why. SB, 2002 1m R (C) * Sneaky V2 Starts just R of the tree and up on slopey holds with a crux slap for the juggy flake. MS, 1999 1m R (D) ** Elastic V3 Excellent. Straight up the dimpled face starting off sidepull and slopey pinches. SB 2001 ½ m R (E)* Unnamed V0 Up the obvious flake arete, Start off small blocks and step up to small underclings then follow the flake R. Be careful of rock. Good. Variant: Start from the ground off small slopey crimps, V4 (Rob Saunders). MS, 2000 2m R (F) * Creaking Limbs V3 Middle of the blank looking face below the hanging flake. Starts off the obvious low handrail, up to flake. Stuart Argent, 1999 (G) ** Nick off V1 LHV of CL, starting just L at better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness. Nick Gust, 2000 BOULDER # 9 (A) Unnamed V0/1 Pocketed slab. MS, 1999 (B) * Ice Cream Topping V0 Starting at the LH end of the long vertical face, traverse R along the slopey top and finish at the flake at the RH end. Surprisingly tricky. Mantle half way for an easier V0. MS, 2001 (C) * Another Cone Please V4 Starting in the middle of the wall off the small LH sidepull and tiny RH crimp. Tricky feet and then launch for the slopey top. Fingery Fun. MS, 2001 (D) * Nasty Knob V4 Sit start on the uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with RH sidepull and lower of the two LH slopes. Fun. SB, 2001 (E) * Winging Shorties V5/6 Essentially Nasty Knob, without the two RH sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopes at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopes to gain the horn. Reachy last move. SB, 2003 Boulder #10 Some nice warm ups on the dome. Brittany Thorogood has done some great mantles on the smaller boulders around the Cow Paddock and Castle.
The Castle If you can’t find the castle your most likely on the wrong mountain. The castle is the 7m high dome of rock visible about 40m from the Cow Paddock. · To get to the castle, follow the directions to the cow paddock and then simply cross the creek bed and your there. The Castle is home to about 10 problems, with quite a few classics. The problems that actually ascend the castle itself are quite high, but as the angle gets less as you get higher, the moves at the top are actually quite relaxed despite the height. Get down via the ramp, or down climb onto the pillars. Approaching The Castle from the Cow Paddock, there are 2 large blocks resting against the left hand side of the castle. The L most of these is the first problem. (1) ** Spider Bite V0 Balancy barn door problem with a great juggy pinch. Classic. Sit start at about V1. MS, 1999 2m R (2) Unnamed V1 On the second block just R. Hard moves up this small pillar. Sit Start, (The Fridge, V3, Rick Wittkopp), makes the problem better. MS, 1999 1m R (3) Air Con Man V1 Starts between the block and a small tree. Up off good sidepull and a few other small features. Reachy. Adam Oudeman, 1999 1.5m R (4) ** Feet & Knuckles V1 Great high problem starting off the obvious high handhold. A few hard moves lead to easy climbing. Stuart Argent, 1999 2m R (5) * Scorched Rubber V3 Sharp Stuff. A few hard moves to a pleasant juggy top section Jason Shaw, 2000 The arete about 6m R starting from ground level. (6) *** Nubbin Nasty V2 Starts at featured vague arete. Excellent starting moves up into some enjoyable higher moves through a field of lichen. A fantastic adventure! MS, 2000 (6a) * Unnamed V3 Slab just R. Essentially Nubbin Nasty without the arête. Good. Anthony Timms, 2003 On the opposite side of the boulder to Scorched Rubber. (7) * The Ramp V0 Great easy access to the top. Start off the jugs below the sloping ramp, pull onto this and then follow it to a balancy final move. MS, 1999 About 30m L when facing Feet and Knuckles, and back a bit is a 3-4 meter high wall that is about 6m long and black. There are 4 problems on this wall. (8) * Flake Crack V0 Up the nice flake line on the LH end of the wall. The block just L also has a short V0. Pete Trezona, 2000 1.5m R (9) Unnamed V0 Up following the line of incut flakes. Pete Trezona, 2000 1.5m R (10) Unnamed V0 Up just R of tree. SB, 2000 2m R (11) Dimples V0 Up the vague arete with some nice balancy moves. Starts directly below the arete. SB, 2000 5m further away from the Castle there is a sit start up the small undercut boulder, on the face pointing towards the castle. (12) ** Xibalba V4 Steep sit start off obvious diagonal edge, moving L to some cool slopes and up. Tough for the Grade. SB, 2001 ** Xibalba Direct V4 As for Xibalba, only after the first move L, come back R to mantle onto your starting hand hold. SB, 2003 * Xibalba Zig Zag (a.k.a. Steve Can’t Mantle) V6 Shows the extent to which the author will go to avoid a tough mantle. A little contrived but still good. Start with the Xibalba starting hold for your LH, and your RH on a crimp in the roof. Awkwardly pull on and throw for the RH sloper, before a big move brings you back L. Continue traversing L all the way to the arête and an EASY mantle on some good holds. Odd. SB, 2003 Just L of Xibalba- Unnamed V3 Crouched start on the arete. MS, 2001
The Alley Way Boulders A nice shady area that has a good variety of easy problems, as well as a few nice harder things. Access is simple as the area is very obvious and the boulders are quite clustered around the base of a hill. The area should be visible from the castle, about 150m behind you when facing Spider Bite V0. Or alternatively from the car: · Head R at the top of the road embankment as for the Cow Paddock. About 200m along the track there is a small Rock cairn on the ground where the track branches. Take the LH branch, heading across a dry creek. · The Alley Way Boulders should be visable ahead and to the L. The first problems are on the prominent largish boulder at the base of the hill. Boulder #1 (A) ** The Fat Lady Sings V3 Sit start on arete and up, moving R to flake at the top and then mantle. Good, with lot’s of moves for it’s height. MS, 2001 (B) * Morning Glory V6 Desperate thin and slopey arete, starting from LH side. Hard move to get chunky sidepull, followed by a blank top section. MS, 2002 (C) Avoiding the Issue V4 Starts just R of the arete , using arete and face holds to move up and diagonally R. MS, 2001 (D) Unfortublock V0 Starts on uphill arete, directly over the badly located flake embedded in the ground, (don’t use this). From slopes move to top and mantle. MS, 2001 (E) Low Mentality V0 From good sidepull, move Up and mantle. MS, 2001 Boulder #2 Some nice easy slabs, especially the arete. Perfect for beginners. Boulder #3 One Tree Slab V0 3 different ways up the short slab with the tiny tree growing on it. Please be careful of the tree. Deb Thorogood, 2002 Boulder #4 (A) * Unnamed V1 Pleasant sit start on undercut face. Start with side pull for LH and edge for RH. Straight up. MS, 2001 (B) Thuggery V3 Sit start at RH end of the undercut slab, just L of flake. Move L along lip joining the top of the above problem. Watch your feet. SB, 2002 Boulder #5 There is a V0 just L of A, (Silly Putty, MS). (A) Creaking Jug V5 Be careful on this one. Starts low at arete, on good LH edge, moving up to loose flake and the top. MS, 2001 (B) ** A Tick Swarm Ate my Spotter V5 The opposite arête and face, with the bad landing. Starts off the massive foothold, moving R to finish. Good, but scary. MS, 2003 Boulder #6 (A) * Charlottes Web V3 Sit start with obvious undercling flake on tiny boulder. MS, 2001 Boulder # 7- The Alley Way. (A) *** The Alley Way Prize V0 Middle of wall. Up on nice holds, with poor feet. One big move and mantle. There is a good varient finish to this problem, moving up and R. You can also go up just R. MS, 2000 (B) * Liberal Rubbish V1 Blank slab with poor feet. MS, 2001 (C) Booby Prize V0 Just L of The Alley Way Prize on slopes. MS, 2002 Boulder # 8 (A) * Viewpoint V0 Face R of crack with bad landing. Fun. MS, 2001 (B) * Don’t fall off V0 The finger crack just L with a terrible landing. Easy but committing. SB, 2002 Boulder #9 (A) * The Volkswagen Waltz V0 Interesting short slab with obvious large foothold. There is an easy problem nearby (Prickly Pair V0, MS). MS, 2001 Boulder #10 (A) * Thruster V2/3 Just L of the tree. Up via jugs, watching the loose top. MS, 2001 (B) Tree Nazi V3 Up in front of and just R of tree to jugs. Cramped and bad rock. MS, 2001 (C) * Almost a Classic V0 Slab R of above problem . Pleasant. MS, 2001 Boulder #11 Late addition to the guide. (A) Uncovered V0 Short little enclosed slab with tough feet. MS, 2002 (B) ** Silky Oak V3 Excellent scoop and arête to an easy top out. Start on LH side of arête, with small incut LH edge. MS, 2002 (C) * Seperation Anxiety V3/4 Up just R of the arête on good sidepulls. A little scary. MS, 2002
The Terrace A great area with a heap of existing classics at a wide variety of grades. It is also one of the more shady areas. The Pigeon Twist boulder is covered in problems that are all good fun. Boulder #11, meanwhile has some of the most pleasant technical slabs you will find. The best problems are Floating V1, the well-traveled Pigeon Twist V3 and the superb False Pretences V3. Difficulty wise, try Mr Stupid V7 for one of Harvey’s more powerful moves, while the Sly Fly V7, Fly Guy V7 double offer some hard crimpy moves.
Boulder #1 Located up the hill a little, this boulder, (actually 2 boulders), is one of the first you come across if you approach the Lower Terrace from the Cow Paddock direction. (A) Disclaimer V3 Thin moves starting off the small block. SB, 2000 * Tight Arse V4 Not Marked on topo. Squeeze your way up under the fallen tree using the RH arete and don't fall off the top for fear of an oversized wooden but plug! MS, 2004 (B) Stretch and Dangle V4 1m L of problem A. From crimps to good edges and up. Sharp, but fun. MS, 2002 * Schlappy V6 Dynamic move just L of false pretences. Standing start and up the flake to finish. Fun. Not marked on topo. MS, 2002 (C) **** False Pretences V3 Just R of tree. Up the steep face on scoopy rock and crisp holds to finish up the flake or via the pocket for a true classic. Start off lower holds (crouched start) for a nice V5, (SB, 2002). Stuart Argent, 1999 ** Gastonia V4 Start as for False Pretences V3, and then traverse R all the way to the RH end of the wall and finish up the V0 slab. Good technical traverse. SB, 03 (D) * Trying Hard V2 Up middle of face R of False Pretences, via incut edges. Either go up R, or blast up and L. MS, 1999 Varients: Link the start of either False Pretences V3 or Trying Hard V2 with the finish of the other. Good. Just R is a great balancy V0. Boulder #1a** Twisty Wristy V3 Low traverse that tackles the downhill overhung side of the tiny flat boulder. Start sitting as far R as possible, and traverse L along the slopey lip, mantling just before the tree onto the massive foothold. Desperate! MS, 2002 * Balmy Palmy V5 Mantle the middle of the tiny overhang from a sit start. Even more desperate! MS, 2002 Boulder #2 * Affliction, Affection, Afunction. V0 A few fun short slabs, including the RH arete from either side, the middle of the wall and the LH arete. Also lot’s of variants, like hands free or one handed to try. SB, 2000 Boulder # 3 This dome has a number of excellent warm ups. Just next to this boulder is a tall scary looking arete that is undone. Just R of this is an excellent sit start on the obvious flake, that moves R to the jug to mantle (Nick Larsen). V4 if your tall, V6 if your not. Boulder # 4 (A) Unnamed V0 Cruisy warm up, hugging the gently overhung block. Sit start also good, with feet allowed to stray R of the crack. MS, 2001 (B) * Unnamed V2 Starts just L on the above block. Starting low move up and R following the vague rising lip to jugs at the top. SB, 2002 (C) Unnamed V2 Technical arete just R of above block, starting off lowest set of handholds. MS, 2001 (D) * Dust Storm V6 Face just R, between obvious RH arête and vague LH arête. Standing start and up anyway you can. MS, 02 There is a problem on the next boulder R, that tackles the loose looking flake. Boulder #5 (A) Unnamed V0 Face starting from the sharp seam. Not great. Aaron Jones, 2000 (B) Unnamed V0 LH arete. Even worse. Keith Van Den Broek, 2000 Boulder #6 This is the shady boulder, and a good boulder to identify and use to find other boulders. It is in the middle of the terrace, is quite short, (2 ½m high), is shaped like a marble and has some shrubbery on top. It is adjacent to a similar looking but slightly larger boulder, (#7). ** The Shady Boulder V0 – V1 Lovely series of short problems on this central boulder. Stuart Agrent, 1999 On the shady boulder: (A) Cowboy V4 Sit start on shady boulder at obvious raised seat, about 2m L of obvious large curving flake, on the smaller curving flake. LH on flake and RH on small crimp out R. SB, 2000 (B) * Heels V3 Sit start laying off the good flake, just R of the stump. Up, without moving too far L. SB, 2002 Boulder #7 See individual topo. One of the most traveled boulders at Harvey’s. Down via the tree. (A) ** Mr Bastard V3/4 Powerful problem off juggy undercling flake on steep undercut wall of boulder. Start crouched off undercling and crimp. Dynamically up. Jason Shaw, 2000 **** Mr Stupid V7 Sit start to Mr Bastard V3/4. Great power problem. MS, 2002 (B) * More Mats Please V5 Short hard thin slab 1 ½m R of Mr Bastard V3/4, and just L of hanging tree roots. Stack mats if you can’t reach the starting holds, (if you can find them). MS, 2002 (C) * State of Mind V6 Starts between More Mats Please and Mr Bastard. Low crouched start with LH on the curving undercling flake, and RH on the tiny edge. Move up via good LH edge and slopey RH pinch, then a crux slap L for a better hold and straight up. MS, 2002 (D) More muffins please V3 Just R of More Mats Please and tree roots. Move up and R to arete. SB, 2002 (E) ** Pigeon Twist V3 Very popular and obvious arete adjacent to shady boulder. Short and fun. MS, 1999 (F) * MGGANG V3 Just R of Pigeon Twist V3, sharing some holds but mostly independent. Starts with small slopey crimp for RH and diagonal slope for LH. Up via the bigger slope and a few other small features. SB, 2002 (G) Sly Boy V3 Slab R of pigeon twist. MS, 2001 * Sly Fly V7 Sit start to Sly Boy V3. May be a crouched start if you can’t reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab. Another version starts crouched and uses the incut sidepull out L to start, (V6, MS, 2002). Not too bad for the grade. SB, 2002 * Fly Guy V7 Link Sly Fly V7 left into MGGANG, via a tough short traverse, Tully Rohrer, 2003 (H) * Free the Refugees V4/5 Sit or crouched start off small diagonal edges at the lip of a small undercut just L of the massive tree. Up on small edges to reach a solid mantle. Starts 1 – 2 m L of the obvious root running down the overhang. Varient: Start with your RH below the roof on the small flake, and your LH above on the diagonal edge above for a tougher low start, (V6, Tully Rohrer). MS, 2002 ** Escape from Woomera V6 As for Free the Refugees V4/5 but instead of mantling, continue traversing R to the big jug and then mantle. Nice easy tick and excellent fun. SB, 2002 Perhaps the ultimate Harvey’s test piece lies on this boulder. Pinch your way up the massive tree root attached to the overhung wall, and then mantle out R on the massive flake. Destined to be a mega classic. (I) Unnamed V21m R of tree root. Start off slopey holds at lip, up to jug and mantle. SB, 2002 Boulder #8 (A) * Unnamed V0 Middle of wall at good RH sidepull. MS, 2000 1.5m L (B) * Unnamed V0 LHS of wall to finish just R of vague arete. MS, 2000 (C) * Lovepocket V4 Sit start just right of (A), with the obvious good sidepull to start. SB, 2002 Boulder #9 (A) *** The Cracks V0 Great easy problem on the obvious cracked egg shaped boulder. Up finger crack, down hand crack. You can also traverse R from the base of the down-climb hand crack to the face R of the finger crack, which is fun. Stuart Argent, 1999 (B) ** Between the Cracks V0-1 Technical slabs between the cracks on the downhill face. A couple of different options. All excellent. MS, 1999 On the two blocks behind you and to your L when facing the cracks, there is a good V0 traverse on the inside steep face of the RH boulder, and the full traverse can be done at V1- Merry Go Round, (MS). On the boulder directly behind you when facing the cracks, the one hidden in shrubbery, is a small V3 sit start on the undercut downhill side, (The day my house got trashed, SB). Just R of this is a pleasant V1 sit start, (The Dog’s Bollocks, Deb Thorogood). Add a grade if you start without the massive flake for your feet. Boulder #10 Had a juggy V1 up the block hanging off the boulder on the uphill side. That was until Madoc decided to rip it off, (the hold, not the block), and send himself, along with the hold, spiraling toward the ground. End result: One slightly broken Madoc, and no more juggy V1. (A) * Wake up Call V2 Thin moves up the face to jugs and an easy mantle. Reachy start, below the obvious jug on lip.. SB, 2000 (B) * Meat Mincer V3 Just L, sharing some holds. Up to loose looking pinch block, (Try to avoid pulling on this with both hands). Technical moves and slap to jugs. Reachy at times. SB, 2000 (C) ** Unnamed V4 Hard moves up the featured arete to a desperate final slap for the jug. Try holding the RH slope in summer!!. Originally sandbagged at V3. Aaron Jones, 2000 (D) * Bungalo Bill V4 Start just L of (C). RH on arête, R foot on big hold. Jump to the edge up and L and then committing move to the top. SB, 03 (E) Namtel V1 Center of face via good RH sidepull, starting off the block. MS, 1999 (F) ** Peter Pan V5 Start just R of (A) Wake up Call V2, off opposing side pulls, (LH high, RH low). Dynamically to top. Could be done any number of ways but was originally done by dynoing RH to the jug above your starting LH hold. Think Happy thoughts. Hasn’t yet been linked with the sit start. SB, 03 * Rover’s Rump V4 Do a sit start to Peter Pan, but rather then finish up Peter Pan V5, traverse L to finish up Wake up Call V2. Good and pleasant for the grade. Late addition, not marked on topo. SB, 2003 Boulder #11 See individual topo. Almost every square cm on this boulder has been climbed. (A) * Stu’s Grunt V1 Start in the middle of the steep slab at slopey pockets on downhill side, finishing on the gentle slab above. Can be done with or without flake for feet. Stuart Argent, 1999 (B) Shorty V0 Arete just R of SG, starting R of tree, using the good jug. MS, 2000 (C) No Right Turn V0 Starts of the good holds at head height and rounds of to finish on the easy slab. SB, 2000 (D) * Unnamed V2 Traverse R from No Right Turn along the obvious slopey line of holds, finishing at the RH end of the face. MS, 2001 The next four problems have a multitude of variants, all good. (E) ** Unnamed V0 Starts off small crimps and up either L or R, (harder). Short but very nice. MS, 2001 (F) *** Floating V1 Obvious groove for RH. Hard move, then jugs, to tick one of the nicest V1’s around. There is a contrived variant just L, about V2. SB, 2001 (G) ** Porky V0 Pleasant slab just R of the above problem with nice LH edge to start. Straight up or diagonally R to join below problem. SB, 2001 (H) * Keep Left V2 Technical Slab / Arete starting just L of arete and going straight up, or L for easier varient. MS, 1999 (I) * Unnamed V3 Bulgy arete below slab. MS, 2001 When facing Stu’s Grunt V2, there are 2 small boulders about 10 - 15m L. One has a good sit start on the obvious feature on the short down hill face, moving up and R to jug on arête, (V1, SB). The other is just a fraction further on and has a good traverse starting off the bulbous jugs, and moving L as far as possible (* Sydney Swingers V3, MS) Boulder # 12 (A) Unnamed V2 Surprisingly good? Don’t use the small detached block at your feet or you will make it easier. Unlikely move of tiny sidepull / undercling flake to jugs at the top. Mantle and down climb the other side. Jason Shaw, Feb 2000. Boulder #13 Two slabs just R of the tree, both easy V0. (A) starts 1 ½ m R of tree and (B) starts 2 ½ m R of tree. Don’t fall off. About 10m L of above problems, around the corner on the same boulder is a steep sit start to an obvious jug. This problem was a late addition so it is not marked on the topo. * Sydney Six V5 I could explain the name but we don’t have that much time. The steep sit start finishing with both hands on the highest point of the big hold. The highball finish is yet to be climbed, although it doesn’t look that bad. Uses the big detached block for feet. SB, 2003 ** Sydney Seven V8? Eliminate the block for your feet on the above problem. SB, 2004 ** Split Pea V6 The sit start just L of the above problems, finishing a couple of moves up with 2 small edges. Unfortunately the wall behind you makes any top out very unlikely. MS, 2004 Boulder #14 A series of nice easy slabs along this short wall. Not on Topo If you continue walking away from the main area of the terrace, and continue parallel to the upper terrace on your L, you will eventually come to, (after about 100m), a large boulder that is about 3 ½ m high and about 5m long. There are six problems on this boulder, the first up the wide groove on the end furthest from the terrace (V0), the second on the arête L of that (V0) with the sit start (* Give me Back my Heel V2) the best problem on the boulder. Another problem up the face 2m further L starting at the jugs (V0), another ½ m L of that avoiding the jugs (V1) and the final problem 1m L again (V0). You can also traverse this wall. On the end of the boulder with the massive tree stump, starting on the fallen slab just L of the stump there is a tiny V2 sitstart. Uphill from this boulder there are two slabby walls set into the hill. The easier RH slab has about 3 easy problems on it. The LH set of slabs, (the blank ones) are much better and are described below. *** Three Star Friction V0 Loads of fun and gets late afternoon shade. There are at least 6 different problems, which are described in relation to the obvious tree at the LH end of the wall. (1) 2 ½ m R of tree at good holds. Up to thin diagonal. (2) 5m R of tree. Brown water streak. Hardest of these slabs. (3) 6 ½ m R of tree. Up to the LH of the small flakes at the top of the wall. (4) 8m R of tree. Up to the RH of the
small flakes at the top of the wall. (6) V3 Start up problem 5 and then traverse L to the start of problem 1 (MS). SB, 2002
The Upper Terrace The Upper Terrace is located on top of the hill running adjacent to the lower terrace. Home too many classics, the Upper Terrace features 3 star problems at the opposite ends of the spectrum. The classic arete Elegance is one of the best easy problems at Harvey’s, while Mike Delta X-Ray would have to rank as one of the best problems of it’s grade anywhere. Also of note is one of Madoc’s slabs, High Roller V3, which is one of the finest slabs around. As you desperately try to flail your body through the final moves, just keep in mind that Madoc considers this a soft tick. This is about as good as it gets and is probably one of the highest quality areas at Harvey’s, and one of the finest collections of granite problems in Australia. · From the lower Terrace head up the hill passing the large and steep boulders, until you are situated above them amongst the collection of large boulders on top. · The eyeball boulder is easy to identify, and that then allows you to identify the other boulders. Boulder #1 See individual topo. (A) *** Mike Delta X-Ray V6 Sensational!! Starts under the obvious overhanging prow, slightly on the RH side. Jump to the slope at the lip and mantle. You can make it V4 by going out L to a chunky edge before mantling. Aaron Jones, 2000 ** Skippy with a Smile V5 Late addition to the guide. Tackles the wall just around L of the prow, and just R of the obvious curving flake. Start with high LH sidepull, and high and tiny RH crimp. Stack mats if your shortish. Fun with immaculate rock. Not marked on topo. SB, 03 **** Golden V8 Very classic if you can do it! (Hint: harder for those under 6ft). Start just R of above problem with your LH on a high pinch. Paste a foot to the edge and launch up and R for a small sidepull. Straight up from there. The authors favorite problem in this guide. Not marked on the topo. SB, 2004 (B) ** Unnamed V2 Balancy face climbing starting at the obvious curving flake. Up and then R to top out. Jason Shaw, 2000 3m L (C) Go go Gadget Gaston V1 Starts next to the small boulder, not standing on it. Up to jug on top. Short SB, 2000. (E) **** Elegance V0 One of the best easy problems done so far. The arete just L of the above problem starting from ground level, and then going up RH side. Juggy start to some long balancy moves between good holds. Can also be done sticking to the LH side. Jason Shaw 2000 * Elegance Sit Start V7 Desperate and at times awkward sit start to Elegance. Good. SB, 2004 (F) *** Delicate Connection V1 Links the elegance start into the finger crack to finish. Excellent! Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001 (G) ** Collateral Damage (a.k.a. Dead Babies) V6 2m L of above problem. Up, starting off high LH slopey pocket and undercling for RH. Don’t move R to arete, rather go straight up to a precise deadpoint then a desperate mantle finish. MS, 2001 (H) Of Mice and Men V5/6 Short wall just L of the above problem. Starts of a small edge and then up via some slopey dishes. Desperate. MS, 2002 (I) Unnamed V3 Middle of the wall just R of obvious hold. MS, 2001 (J) * Super Double with a Twist V4 Weird. Starts just R of Mike Delta X-Ray V6 with LH on obvious sidepull and RH on obvious hold. Up and out R, starting off a small block or stacked mats to reach LH sidepull. MS, 2002 (K) ** Font Dreaming V6 Start as for the above problem but go up and L, via some fantastic slopers, and mantling via jugs for LH. Fun. SB, 2003 Boulder #2 (A) **** High Roller V3 High slab on LH end of wall with obvious flake foothold. Up on series of sidepulls. Classic slab. MS, 2000 (B) * Children Overboard V4 High slab in the middle of the wall with another series of sidepulls. Hard. MS, 2001 * Unnamed V2 Slab just R of above problem identified by prominent triangular edge for your feet. Not marked on topo. MS, 2003 (C) Unnamed V0 Mantle short face on vague arete. MS, 2001. (D) * The Fun Ain’t over yet V1 After somehow managing this awkward mantle the problem lives up to it’s name as you somehow figure out a way to get down. For extra value mantle the jugs without moving up arete. Jason Shaw, 2000 * Nasty Bastard V6 Tough! Sit start off the block to above problem, using tiny RH sidepull and LH pinch. Thumb destroying fun. Not marked on topo. SB, 2004 (E) *** Best in Tension V8 Stunning! The steep highball arete on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height. MS, 2002 (F) *** Sidewinder V6 Just R of above problem. Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up. MS, 2002 Boulder #3- Hard Person Wall (A) * Imported Products V7 Starts in the middle of the steep wall off the in-cut edges with a lack of feet. Big moves to the top. Sharp but good. Matt Zimmerman, 2001 * Australian Maid V7 LHV of above problem, using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products. Watch you don't tumble back top far on the landing! Not marked on topo. SB, 2004 ** Unnamed V6 RHV of Imported Products. Start with your LH on the obvious sharp incut. Paste a foot and jump start up and R, then a slopey finish coming back L. Not marked on topo. SB, 2004 *** Sleight of Hand V6 Classic. Start with the good RH sidepull about 3m R of above problem, pretty much in front of the tree. Swing start, (one foot on the wall and jump) to a good LH hold. Up and L to the good holds above Imported Products. Late addition so not marked on topo. Varient: Instead of moving out L mantle straight up. Similar difficulty, but maybe not quite as good, (unless you like mantles!!). MS, 03. SB, 2003 The other side of this boulder is home to a super hard steep project- go for it. Boulder #4 (A) Jungle Fever V1 Slap your way up this unfortunately sharp hanging flake. Starts off the massive fallen slab of rock. Jason Shaw, 2000 (B) *** The Eyeball V5 Mantle slightly R of the middle of the scoop, starting from ground level on L arete, or alternatively making a launch for the lip, (easier, but very committing). Classic. MS, 2001 (C) ** The Incred-eye-ball mantle V7 Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab. Rob Saunders, 2002 (D) *** The Big Tick V7 Face with steep start 2m L of above problem. Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive ‘ear’ and up on thin holds. A magnificent line with spectacular rock. SB, 2002 * Eddie the Enlightened V4 The face 2m R of Jungle Fever, and just L of arete. Start with really high edge for RH and 2 finger scoop for LH. Up trending L. Not marked on topo. SB, 2004 Boulder #5 You can traverse the lip of this boulder in either direction for a nice pumpy V2 warm up. (A) * The testicle mantle V0 If you had seen the first ascent you would understand why. Starts with the flake on the LH end of the boulder. Great steep move to jug on lip, then mantle, (trying to use ONLY normal climbing appendages). Low start can be done with RH on edge and low LH pinch (V7, SB). SB, 2000 1.5m R (B) Groin Strain V4 Start crouched off small RH sidepull and incut tooth for LH, slap holds on lip and launch for the massive flake back a bit, (or mantle). V0 if you start with the holds at the lip. SB, 2000 (C) Unnamed V4 Sit start with LH undercling, and RH crimp. One move to top and mantle. MS, 2003 Boulder #6 A multitude of variants are possible on this wall. Mega classic warm up wall. (A) * Unnamed V0 Very easy. Up on nice nice holds to jugs at top. Starts R of the loose flake. 2m R (B) ** Slippery when wet- the problem V0 First done in the rain. Good holds lead to an easy mantle. MS, 2000. * Unnamed V1 Wall between above and problems B and C, aiming for good edges. Not marked on topo. MS, 2002 ** A Mere Technicality V5 Link Slippery When Wet into below problem, staying on the bottom half of the wall while you traverse. Good. SB, 2004 2m R of (B) (C) * Cicada cravings V0 Fun slab problem up featured wall with almost perfect rock and weird nubbins. Through small tree branch at top. SB 2000 1m R (D) Unnamed V0 Nice short cruisy problem. John Baskerville, 2000 Boulder #7 (A) ** Frayed V1 Nice problem up the vague arete in the middle of the next boulder, moving L to flake then up. Sit start at V2. SB, 2000. The slab 1/2m L of Frayed is a nice warm up. (B) * Balded V3 Wall just R of frayed MS, 2001 Continuing along past these walls there are some nice easy traverses on the next boulders. Boulder #8 (A) ** Grasshopper Crawling V3 Excellent sit start on obvious flake. MS, 2000 (B) Rear Entry V2 Wall just L of flake with hard top out. MS, 2000 (C) * Unnamed V0 Nice slab with small pockets and edges. MS, 2000 (D) Unnamed V0 Just L of arete MS, 2000 Boulder #9 (A) ** Rally for Peace and Justice V4 High, thin and delicate with a bad landing. Starting just L of the block and just R of the thin dead tree. Move up and slightly L, then precariously to the top. Scary. MS, 2002
Sunny Side Has one classic V1 and a few other nice problems, but this area is not very extensive. There are plenty of better areas, but Sunny Side does provide a nice area to visit if you are playing in the terrace, as it is so close. Most of the problems are marked directly on the topo below, but the three best problems have individual descriptions. (A) *** Blade Runner V1 The short curving arete following it L to the top. MS, 1999 (B) * I’m Over Your Fat Arse V0 Juggy arete to the top. Sit start, (V4, MS), improves the problem substantially. You can also link the sit start with the slab R. SB, 2000 (C) * Tendon Terrorist V6 Reachy and a little contrived. The face with the high and tiny RH sidepull. Starts using a slopey LH pinch, just R of arête, but the arête itself is off, as is the jug about 1/2m above the starting RH sidepull. Pull on and launch with your LH to the slope, and then mantle. SB, 02
The Little Boulders A nice area with a couple of classic short hard problems. A different area, with nice easy access. · Continue from the middle of the lower terrace (Pigeon Twist boulder, Boulder #7), parallel to the ridgeline for about 60m. · As the vegetation clears on your R, continue diagonally R down the grassy slope and you should walk straight into the first of the boulders, (most are hidden by trees or down the hill. Boulder #1 (A) * Sprung V0 Nice moves starting off obvious flake handhold. SB, 2002 (B) *Sprung VS V2 Face and arete moving up and L at the top to finish as for sprung. Doesn’t use the obvious flake hold. SB, 2002 (C) * A Kick in the Pants V3 Slightly scary downhill facing arete and face starting just L of the tree. Be careful of landing. The sit start, (** A kick in the teeth V5, MS) is surprisingly good. SB, 2002 Boulder #2 (A) Unnamed V0 Easy mantle with another interesting landing MS, 2002 Boulder #3 (A) * Back to the Wall V0 Arete at the beginning of the small trench. SB, 2002 Boulder #4 (A) Unnamed V0 Sit start off obvious jug. (B) Unnamed V4 Hard Mantle. MS, 2002 Boulder #5 (C) **Little Wing V5 Superb. Sit start on small and steep pillar. Slap your way up, but don’t use the boulder R for feet.. MS, 2002 Boulder #6 The black boulder has a few nice problems that have been done by somebody??. Boulder #7 (A) * Unnamed V3 Obvious scoop. Start off protruding slope at lip. Straight up or move R to top out (slightly easier). Traverse in from out L, (sitting on block), for a better V4 (SB). MS, 2002 (B) Unnamed V1 Face just R of scoop. MS, 2002 Boulder #8There are also a few projects to attempt on this boulder, most notably the jump start on the downhill nose between the two trees. (A) Unnamed V0 Nice short face to a fun mantle. SB, 03 (B) Unnamed V2 Used to be easier, but somebody broke the key hold. Not too bad though. SB, 03 (C) * Unnamed V2 Nice face, with a bit of a dodgy landing. Some big moves, but with some big holds. MS, 03 The below problems are late additions so not marked on the topo. * Unnamed V5/6 Slopey pocket mantle L of the big tree and prominent nose (opposite side of boulder to above problems), not using the flake embedded in the ground. V12 if you use Madoc's original sequence and stick your RFoot above your head! Varient: Use the flake embedded in the ground and sit start on the jug L, moving R into the slopey pocket mantle, (V5, MS). MS, 03 ** Bubblewrap V5/6 Fun Fun Fun. Originally done by headtorch. Sit start just R of above problem, (just L of tree), using the flake embedded into the ground for your LHand and feet, and the edge for your RHand. Steep start up into the above problem. SB, 03 If you continue along away from the Little Boulders there are some high slabs, and one good sit start (V3/4) in about the middle of these walls, (Start laying off a good sidepull, mantle up into slab).
The Slabs The Slabs consist of a row of very low angled boulders and have a few very easy problems, great for kids, and a couple of tougher 0's. The better problems are located on the small boulders just downhill from the end of the slabs that is furthest from the car. · Access to the slabs is easy as they are the closest boulders to the car. At the top of the road embankment they are visible, about 60m away to your L. Most problems are just marked on topo, while the better problems are also described below. Boulder #1 A few easy warm ups. Boulder #2 (A) * Flight Path V2 fun short dynamic problem. Up arete in one big move. Watch the flake. SB, 2001 (B) * Unnamed V2 Face between the two aretes with an awkward landing. MS, 2001 (C) Unnamed V2 Face and arete to a tricky mantle. SB, 2001 (D) Unnamed V0 Nice warm up. SB, 2001 Boulder #3 (A) SRM V0 Short round mantle. Fun. SB, 2001 (B) Unnamed V2 Middle of blank slab. MS, 2001 (C) Unnamed V1 RH end of slab. Step L onto big foothold. MS, 2001
The Snooze Boulder Home to the pumpiest problem at Harvey’s, (Monster of Rock/PMT), as well as a few other nice problems. · From the top of the road embankment where you park the car head down and L for the obvious collection of slabby boulders that are visable about 40m away (The slabs). From these boulders head directly away from the road for about 100m, crossing a small creak and heading to the top of the hill. · The snooze boulder is located on top of this hill, basically in a direct line with the slabs and road. If you can’t identify the snooze boulder, identify boulder #3, the monster of rock boulder. It is the obvious long and relatively low boulder with a line of jugs around the lip of the steep section. Boulder #1: The snooze boulder (A) Unnamed V0 Crusty face, moving L at top. Madoc Sheehan, 1999 (B) * Unnamed V1 Mantle the slight bulge. MS, 1999 (C) * Unnamed V0 The arete just R. Nice easy warm up with some great footwork. Move to middle of slab and mantle. MS, 1999 (D) * Wondergirl V6 Sit start in the middle of undercut slab. RH on scoop ¾ m L of arete, LH on small slopey edge 1¼ m L of arete, (roughly). Move R to arete and up via hard last move. Easier in winter. SB, 2001 (E) * Unnamed V2 Sit or crouched start on arete off good edges, (final move of wondergirl). Straight up. V0 if you start standing. MS, 1999 Boulder #2 has some nice easy problems. Boulder #3 A few little up problems can also be done on this boulder. (A) ** Monster of Rock V4/5 Completed by visiting Canadian Adrian because the locals have no endurance. Obvious sit start under the hanging flake. Up and steeply traverse R, moving round the corner and then mantling off the final good holds about a meter before the tree. Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001 ** PMT (Pulled Muscle Tendon) V7 As for the above problem, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for above problem. MS, 2002 Boulder #4 (A) *Unnamed V0 Nice short face. MS, 1999 Boulder #5 (A) Unnamed V0 Short problem up crunchy face, starting off low set of holds. Deb Thorogood, 2001 Boulder #6: The power boulder * Blood V3 The best of the three. Low start under the obvious jugs. Jason Shaw, 2000 Just R Unnamed V3 Sit start off nasty edges to a fun, (read grovel), mantle. Jason Shaw, 2000 Just L Pumpy Power Piece V4 Start near tree off crusty diagonal LH edge and small crimp for R. Pop R to slot and then move to big jugs. Jason Shaw, 2000 Boulder #7 (A) Unnamed V0 Mantle into featured slab. MS, 2001 (B) Unnamed V0 Obvious easy flake crack. MS, 2001 (C) ** Unnamed V3 Excellent sit start at the base of the corner, (R side of the block). Move technically up and L onto the slab to finish at the flake crack. MS, 2001 (D) Unnamed V0 Corner to the top. SB, 2001 (E) * Unnamed V1 Contrived problem up wall just R of corner staying away from holds in the corner. SB, 2001 (F) * Arnold Lane V0 Arete R of corner from either side. SB, 2001 (G) Unnamed V0 Face R of arete. Many variations. MS, 2001 Boulder #8 (A) Unnamed V0 Slab L of big blocks. MS, 2001 There are a few nice things just downhill of boulder #7, as well as a few nice traverses just uphill.
The Fun Parlor Access to the Fun Parlor is also easy, and once again the topo alone should suffice. Just in case though, here are the directions for the easiest way from the road. The beast problems are Fall From Grace V2, and Tumble V3. Also home to one of the hardest slabs at Harvey’s, with Subtle Manipulation V7. · At the top of the road embankment, turn L and follow the track for about 60m till you reach an obvious rock cairn on a small boulder. · At this point follow the track away from the road. · Continue in this direction and after 100m or so you should see two small boulders that are slightly isolated from the rest of the Fun Parlour. This is the Scoop Boulder and has 4 problems. Amazingly, it has a scoop on the front face. The first problems, as mentioned above, are on the scoop boulder. Boulder #1 (A) Scoop Left V1 From centre of scoop using L arete. MS, 1999 (B) * Scoop Right V3 From centre of scoop straight upwards. Sit start is called Lisa V4, (Live Lundemo) and is desperate! MS, 1999 (C) Unnamed V0 Obvious flake. Not especially good. (D) ** The King is a fink V2 No, that’s not a typo. Start as far R of the scoop as possible and traverse L, topping out L of the scoop, (as for sccop left V1). Can also be done in reverse. SB, 2002 There is also a V4 sit start on the small boulder behind the first, tackling the tiny overhang (Shorty V4, Live Lundemo). Continuing a further 10 – 15m in the direction you were heading there is a large boulder with an ugly loose crack on it’s RH end. This is the warm up boulder and has some nice easier problems (**V0 – V1). All by Madoc and Sarah Sheehan. Boulder #2 (A) Warm up #1 Centre of face via good incut sidepull. (B) Warm up #2 1m L. Up through bulge. (C) Warm up #3 1m L. Short slab. Boulder #3 (A) * Moo V0 Pleasant face. The next boulder R also has a nice V0 Sarah Sheehan, 1999 Boulder #4 (A) Unnamed V1 Up small block and then up the V0 slab if you want. MS, 1999 (B) * Deception V1 Slabby arete and face just R of small tree and just L of block. Good. MS, 1999 (C) *** Fall From Grace V2 Area classic with lovely technical moves. Up the L leaning vague arete starting just L of small tree. MS, 1999 ** Arc V6/7 Continue Fall from Grace L along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here. SB, 2004 (D) * Gone in 15 Seconds V5 Jason’s final new problem at Harvey’s. The sharp and steep flake and arête on the uphill face, starting just R of the tree. Typical of Jase to do it on his first attempt, without warming up, having just taken a 2 month break from climbing. Jason Shaw, February 2001 (E) * Subtle Manipulation V7 The high slab on the opposite side of fall from grace V2. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top. Very thin or awkward depending on which way you do it. SB, 2002 ** Subtle Manipulation Sit Down Start V8 Add the sit start, with the lower of the two LH sidepulls and a RH sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem. SB, 2003 * Slip Slop Slap V3 Wall just R of above problems starting with LH on high small crimp and Rh on lower of the good sidepulls. Not Marked on Topo. SB, 2004 ** Little Lefties V7 A reference to the holds rather then a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit start off the block into above problem. Starts with the low RH sidepull. Technical, painful but good!. Not Marked on Topo. SB, 2004 When facing Fall From Grace V2, there is a small boulder 10m behind you with two V3 sit starts. The Wrong Way, on the RH arête (SB) and the Other Way, in the middle, (MS). Link the sit start of The Other Way, R into the start of The Wrong Way via a tough thin traverse, and add a couple of grades, (The Hard Way, (SB) Boulder #5Boulder #5 has some nice short problems on the face split by the horizontal crack including some short sit starts about V2/3, (One on RH tiny arête and the other in the middle of the overhung face using horizontal break). Also has: (A) * Unconventional Means V5 Sit start on RH arête, and then traverse L along the lip, (not using obvious jug over the top), continuing around the LH arête and mantle just around the corner using the obvious mega flake. SB, 2002 Boulder #6- The Mushroom Boulder (A) Timeout V1 Steep slopey layback flake up crumbly boulder that’s a nice breather from the crimps. MS, 1999 (B) ** Delicat V0 Slab with steep start on back end of the boulder. Start on LH side of slab for nicest V0, start straight on, also V0, or start on RH side off low jug (V1). MS, 1999 (C) * Magic Mushrooms V3 Starts at Deli-cat V0, on the mushroom boulder. Move up and diagonally L, hanging off the very vague arete. Big move to reach the slopey dish out L and then mantle. Alternatively traverse in from the R for V4 (MS, 2002). SB, 2002 (D) * The Mushroom Dyno V6 Start just R of Timeout V1, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and L for the flake and finish up this. Desperate. MS, 2002 Facing Delicat on the above boulder there is a slabby arete behind you and downhill a few meters. This, starting from LH on the big low jug and RH on sidepull id Finicky Finishes (V5, SB). Boulder #7 (A) * Spiderman V1 Centre of face starting off obvious rock, moving R to finish. Can be started directly under the finishing holds at about V3, (SB), and can be linked with the ashes V2, (SB), for some longer problems. Other variants include a mantle straight above the block, avoiding the jugs out L and R, (V3, MS) Stuart Argent, 1999 (B) ** The Ashes V0 Arete just L of Spiderman. Great. MS, 1999 * Unnamed V4 Traverse R from the Ashes to the end of the boulder and up the easy arete. Stay quite low during the traverse. SB, 2004 (C) * Beached Whale V1 Arete just L of B, with tricky moves toward the top. MS, 1999 Unnamed V1 Face just R of Beached Whale V1. Not marked on topo. Ben Collins, 2002 Boulder #8 (A) *** Tumble V3 Another excellent technical arete starting from lowest level at the ground. MS, 1999 Blame Canada V3 Take the tumble arete from the RH side. Bad landing, but worth repeating just to touch the same rock as was fondled by some celebrity canadians! Not Marked on Topo. Jason Barber, 2004 (B) * Left Hand Wall of Tumble V1 1.5m L of tumble. Up and L to join vague arete (RH side of scoop). Follow this to top. SB, 2002 There is an intimidating V0 up the center of the scoop, (via the jug), as well as an easy one up the crack L and another V0 up the slab L again. On the small boulders L of the above problem there are some nice short slabs and aretes. In particular the short ‘hugging’ slab just L.
Middle Marsh A few small and crap boulders, with only a few good problems. Access is easy. · From the Fun Parlour continue along the main track straight across the top of the gully. · Continue for a further 30m. Middle marsh is essentially one cluster of moderate sized boulders, surrounded |
