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RIDING TIPS
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Inspect & Detect
Do you remember how safe a driver you were
when you left a Motorcycle Safety Course? Do you remember the
checklist they make you memorize --- check brakes, mirrors, headlight, turn
signals, horn, and tire condition. When was the last time you did that
before you rode? If you're like most of us, you put the key in, turn the
ignition to on, start it up, and head off. Yet we all know that motorcycles
are maintenance intensive.... it saves lives.. |
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Rain
In Tasmania we get some real gutter-washers.
At such times it rains hard enough and fast enough to soak even the most
properly prepared rider. During such storms cars even pull over to the side
of the road when visibility lessens. While you are not advised to ride in
such conditions, some have learned a great deal about the capabilities of
their bike and its tires while caught in downpour conditions. It's amazing
what a bike can do in the rain. If you're careful, watch out for puddles,
avoid rain tracks in the lane, and prepare more for braking. If you haven't
ridden in the rain, how do you know you have the skills to survive a
downpour? It's all part of riding. Liquid sunshine brings out the best and
worst of all riders.
Hydroplaning is the result of
your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have
sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the centre of the tire.
The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and
all traction is thus lost.
Of course the word 'fast' is a relative
term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth
of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly
aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed
the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that
any speed in excess of 100 km/h is fast enough to support hydroplaning
regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 60 km/h you
are safe. If your tyres are worn, get some new ones as the pain when paying
for your new tyres is nothing compared to the injuries that you could
sustain. Remember, ride to the road and weather conditions. |
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Know Your Limits
Don't plan on 600 kilometre days, if you
haven't ridden in a month. On long trips, statistics show that on day seven,
the typical long distance rider will cover about 65 percent of the average
daily mileage on a two-day trip. This means fatigue is progressive over days
throughout a multiple day trek. Plan ahead for this fact. There's nothing
worse than rushing a trip and getting to see nothing but white lines flash
by next to you. While the kilometres may add up, you'll having nothing but
stories of fatigue to show for it.
You're out on a tour and 500 kilometres
are behind you. Every hour or so you have made a pit stop for fuel and/or
food. Now you're really getting tired. Time for a cup of coffee, right?
WRONG!
Coffee, Coke, No-Doze and other
stimulants/drugs DO NOT WORK to keep you alert when you're tired. Better,
find a place to stop and take a nap. Even half an hour is sufficient to
re-charge your battery enough to let you go on, if you need to.
Better still, find a place to stop for the
rest of the day and get a normal night's sleep.
If you are planning a long ride be well
rested before hand by getting a good nights sleep, if not well rested forget
the ride. |
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Forget High Speeds
Data shows that high speeds and distance are
not correlated on motorcycle rides. Higher speeds exponentially wear out the
rider and spoil fuel efficiency. You'll spend more time refuelling or
signing your name on traffic tickets. Dodging traffic also increases
fatigue, as well as increases your blood pressure and those around you.
Driving at high speeds also tarnishes the sport. Did you ever wonder why
some people have poor attitudes towards motorcyclists? Perhaps its due to
throttle jockeys who love to lane-split their way down highways. |
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Know Your Riding Mates
Know and trust who you're riding with. The
quickest way into a sticky situation is in riding next to someone. This
allows you only 1/2 of your lane to manoeuvre and multiplies the chances for
an accident. Experienced riding partners ride in a staggered formation and
learn to sense when the other is braking and accelerating. By working
together you can reduce the chances of accidents by doubling your visibility
and using you riding mate as either a shield or as a shield to him. In
Tasmania motorcycles and pushbikes are allowed to ride two abreast since
01-12-1999, however due to many factors it is a practice best left to the
expendable open face helmet wearers.
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 | Wind |
Wind and in particular wind gusts can make
riding uncomfortable and dangerous. One method of dealing with wind is to cock
your knee out to the side the wind is coming from. How far you put your knee
out depends on the wind strength, this practice disrupts the air flow on that
side of the bike and creates drag naturally pulling the bike towards the wind.
Do try this method for yourself, as a gust of wind hits you from the side the
drag is increased and reduces the effect of the wind.
Normal method
There are a couple of things that you can do
to make the experience less stressful, however. For example, you can
quit white-knuckling your grips. When you hold on tight you also tend to stiff
arm your controls. This merely allows front-end instability to propagate into
the rest of the motorcycle. Relax your grips and droop your elbows.
Allow your bike to be a bit unstable. Drive in the centre of your lane.
Lean forward and down to reduce your profile, and snug up your jacket.
What about traction? You neither gain
nor lose any significant traction when the wind blows from your side unless
you are in a curve. While you are leaned into the wind all
of the weight of the bike remains on your tires and there is very little
lateral force scrubbing that traction away.
Should you anticipate those gusts?
Should you just respond quickly to a gust in order to remain in control and travelling
in a straight line? No, and no. Your bike will NOT travel in a
straight line. That is, as long as you allow it to do its thing, your
bike will be modestly blown off course with a gust and the result of that
movement is EXACTLY the same as any other minor course change - you will need
modest counter-steer input to correct it - the CG of your bike will then be on
the side the wind came from and the result is that it will lean towards the
wind.
[Anticipating wind-sheer IS important under
a couple of scenarios: the approach of an oncoming large vehicle
suggests that severe buffeting will occur when you pass it, and entering or
exiting stretches protected from the wind such as cuttings or bridges with
relatively high retaining walls. In these cases you will certainly want
to position the bike away from the source of the wind-sheer and insure you
maintain a firm grip.]
Is a heavier bike less likely to be blown
around than a lighter bike? Not necessarily. What is primarily
determinant of how great the effect of a crosswind is on your bike is its
profile.
Can you mitigate some of that instability in
any way? Yes. There are cowling additions that can be designed (some are
available off the shelf - called 'belly pans') that streamline the airflow
under your bike and help (modestly) to reduce crosswind handling problems.
Your side profile area is what determines
how your motorcycle reacts to crosswinds. Just as there is a Centre of
Gravity, there is also a Centre of wind resistance. If that centre of
wind resistance is in front of your Centre of Gravity then crosswinds will
tend to push you off course while if it is behind your Centre of Gravity the
motorcycle will try to steer INTO the wind. Thus, mounting a high profile
LIGHT object (a stuffed animal, for example) onto your trunk lid or your
pillion can have a dramatically corrective effect rather than worsen the
bike's steering reaction to those crosswinds.
Crosswinds can be murder if you are leaned
way over in a curve. Don't, if you can avoid it.
As a result
of a crosswind your bike will move off course and normal modest counter-steer
will lean it into the wind. A strong gust will blow you out of track.
So, correct your steering, gently, and keep going.
Note ...
there are TWO times when a gusty crosswind changes your bike's direction of
travel: when it hits, and when it stops. Both require that you
allow the bike to respond and use normal modest counter-steering. (When
it quits you will be leaned over and, as a result, your bike will move towards
where the wind WAS coming from until you straighten it up.
If
crosswinds involve huge short gusts, go park the bike. If the crosswinds
are more sustained, pucker up and keep going.
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Leave The No-Doze at Home
Drugs and stimulants don't work. If you need
stimulants to keep you awake, including coffee, tea, or other caffeine
shocks, you shouldn't be riding. A good sign of fatigue is an inability to
maintain positioning in your lane or difficulty in maintaining a set speed.
You want to be riding a long time.... Protect that right by riding only when
your senses are sharp. |
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Pack it Right
The right way to pack is as important as what
to pack. Make sure that your load is centred, stable, and that only the
right stuff is loaded. A good rule of thumb is as follows: You can't get
very far if your bike breaks down, so bike maintenance items should take
priority. Second priority should be personal comfort items, including
motorcycle riding gear and camping items. Third on the agenda are things
that you'd like to take, but aren't quite sure if they will fit, like
portable washing machines, hair dryers, etc.... Part of the fun is knowing
what to pack, and what not to pack. |
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Practice Your Art
The only way to keep your skills honed is to
ride and practice. While riding pick out spots on the road and imagine them
to be debris. Practice avoiding such spots and other make-believe obstacles
(don't try real ones, such as people please). Following at a safe distance
is a good way of increasing your reaction time to such obstacles. The finer
arts of riding can be obtained by practicing slow speed drills. Most
spills happen during low speed manoeuvres, such as parking or making
U-turns. Another tip is to treat every turn as if sand were there. Don't
trust the surface to provide friction unless you've been through it already.
This is especially true at intersections, but is equally likely on any
corner where cars or truck tires push around dirt. |
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A Healthy Paranoia
Trust no-one. Whether you call it
aggressive defence or paranoid driving, just do it! The best way is to learn
the proper techniques through the Motorcycle advanced rider's courses.
Scanning is the number one best way to stay out of trouble. If you see a
target in front, to the side, or behind you develop the knack of making
mental notes of their possible actions and your reactions. And if anything
remotely smells of trouble, cover your brakes. The plus side is that while
you can get into some sticky situations, a twist of the wrist can often get
you out of them. |
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Be Seen
Trust no one! The best way to avoid placing
any trust in other vehicles is to stay away from them. This includes placing
a buffer zone around your bike and maintaining it. By protecting your safe
zone you maintain visibility and increase the chances of your anticipating
any unforeseen events. This is a difficult feat in heavy traffic. At the
very least avoid travelling directly behind trucks. When you do you are
placing your future in that driver's hands and minimize any possibility of
you avoiding objects in your path. |
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Dress it Right and Cover Down
Proper dress can save your skin. This is a
difficult feat amidst blistering summer temperatures, but while those shorts
may be nice and cool, they lend little protection in a fall. When the
temperature climbs above 30 degrees in high humidity or 35 degrees in low
humidity it is downright uncomfortable riding in leathers and a helmet. If
you commute, try avoiding the hottest parts of the day. Most of this
discussion goes away in the winter, since we all don whatever windproof
apparel we have. But in the summer we continually witness riders in shorts,
without shirts on and using thongs as their feet armour. I don't think these
riders have ever witnessed what happens to human flesh after it slides 20 to
30 metres on the tarmac. |
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Position Yourself
If the car you're following has its left turn
signal on, move over to the right side of the lane. This allows the cars
following you to see without obstruction the turn signal of the car ahead
and warns them of stopped vehicles up in front. If the car you're tailing
has its right turn signal on, move over to the left side of the lane. This
again permits cars following to see more clearly. But just before you stop
behind the car, move over to the right hand side of the lane. Being stopped
behind the car on the right hand side offers an escape route if in fact the
cars behind do not stop in time to avoid a collision. |
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What you can't see can hurt you
Blind corners have claimed many
motorcyclists. A good survival rule of thumb is never to rely solely on
signs. If you've never been on the roads you are ridging on, you are, in
essence, a rookie. And rookies should never push it to the limit. Rarely do
signs warn of gravel in the middle of the turn, off-camber turns or
decreasing radius turns. Local riders will know every inch of each turn, but
you won't. Twisters are the greatest invention since sliced bread, but a
sliced rider can't twisty. |
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What's new can kill you
What's worse than having a new rider on a
bike they've never ridden? -- Perhaps a new bike that an experienced rider
hasn't ridden. Just because you've conquered your last bike doesn't mean
that you can ride anything. Unfortunately, experienced riders often forget
to be humble when handling a new toy. Different throttle responses, braking
tendencies, cornering ability, centre of gravity, and ergonomics can really
throw you off. Treat any bike you haven't mastered with respect. If you
don't, you may find they bite as hard as they bark. |
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It's the Slow Stuff We Tend to Forget
The first skill to deteriorate after
months out of the saddle is the slow speed stuff. What you'll find is that
slow speed skills are directly transferable to the high-speed stuff. Perhaps
the most essential survival skill is quick braking. If you've never panic
stopped your bike, how do you know you'll perform under pressure. Learn to
know the warning signs of front and rear wheel lock. Stopping quickly is a
good thing. Doing a stoppy over the handlebars is as uncool as sliding 30
metres on the rear tire.
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You Go Where You Look
Survival instincts lure us
to look at danger areas in the road, such as obstacles in our path or at the
outside of turns in which we are running wide into. Your bike will go where
you look. Rather than look where the danger is, try looking where the danger
isn't. This will prevent you from fixating on the danger area, and keep you
out of harm's way.
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Huh?
Wear ear plugs, this piece
of gear is essential for a lifetime's worth of safe riding. Wind noise at
highway speeds is in excess of 110 decibels. For perspective, a noisy
restaurant produces about 80 db of noise, a rock band about 110 db, a car
horn about 115 db, and a gunshot about 140 db. Helmets alone cannot prevent
long-term hearing loss. Experts say hearing loss can begin at 90 db. Max
safe exposure at 110 db is 1 hour, and only 15 minutes to sounds in excess
of 115 db. Unless you want to spend the rest of your life saying
"huh?" protect your hearing.
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