TAMAR TOURERS

 

RIDING TIPS

 

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Inspect & Detect

Do you remember how safe a driver you were when you left a Motorcycle Safety  Course? Do you remember the checklist they make you memorize --- check brakes, mirrors, headlight, turn signals, horn, and tire condition. When was the last time you did that before you rode? If you're like most of us, you put the key in, turn the ignition to on, start it up, and head off. Yet we all know that motorcycles are maintenance intensive.... it saves lives..

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Rain

In Tasmania we get some real gutter-washers. At such times it rains hard enough and fast enough to soak even the most properly prepared rider. During such storms cars even pull over to the side of the road when visibility lessens. While you are not advised to ride in such conditions, some have learned a great deal about the capabilities of their bike and its tires while caught in downpour conditions. It's amazing what a bike can do in the rain. If you're careful, watch out for puddles, avoid rain tracks in the lane, and prepare more for braking. If you haven't ridden in the rain, how do you know you have the skills to survive a downpour? It's all part of riding. Liquid sunshine brings out the best and worst of all riders. 

Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the centre of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and all traction is thus lost.

Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 100 km/h is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 60 km/h you are safe. If your tyres are worn, get some new ones as the pain when paying for your new tyres is nothing compared to the injuries that you could sustain. Remember, ride to the road and weather conditions.

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Know Your Limits

Don't plan on 600 kilometre days, if you haven't ridden in a month. On long trips, statistics show that on day seven, the typical long distance rider will cover about 65 percent of the average daily mileage on a two-day trip. This means fatigue is progressive over days throughout a multiple day trek. Plan ahead for this fact. There's nothing worse than rushing a trip and getting to see nothing but white lines flash by next to you. While the kilometres may add up, you'll having nothing but stories of fatigue to show for it. 

You're out on a tour and 500 kilometres are behind you. Every hour or so you have made a pit stop for fuel and/or food. Now you're really getting tired. Time for a cup of coffee, right?

WRONG!

Coffee, Coke, No-Doze and other stimulants/drugs DO NOT WORK to keep you alert when you're tired. Better, find a place to stop and take a nap. Even half an hour is sufficient to re-charge your battery enough to let you go on, if you need to.

Better still, find a place to stop for the rest of the day and get a normal night's sleep. 

If you are planning a long ride be well rested before hand by getting a good nights sleep, if not well rested forget the ride.

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Forget High Speeds

Data shows that high speeds and distance are not correlated on motorcycle rides. Higher speeds exponentially wear out the rider and spoil fuel efficiency. You'll spend more time refuelling or signing your name on traffic tickets. Dodging traffic also increases fatigue, as well as increases your blood pressure and those around you. Driving at high speeds also tarnishes the sport. Did you ever wonder why some people have poor attitudes towards motorcyclists? Perhaps its due to throttle jockeys who love to lane-split their way down highways.

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Know Your Riding Mates

Know and trust who you're riding with. The quickest way into a sticky situation is in riding next to someone. This allows you only 1/2 of your lane to manoeuvre and multiplies the chances for an accident. Experienced riding partners ride in a staggered formation and learn to sense when the other is braking and accelerating. By working together you can reduce the chances of accidents by doubling your visibility and using you riding mate as either a shield or as a shield to him. In Tasmania motorcycles and pushbikes are allowed to ride two abreast since 01-12-1999, however due to many factors it is a practice best left to the expendable open face helmet wearers.

 

bulletWind 

Wind and in particular wind gusts can make riding uncomfortable and dangerous. One method of dealing with wind is to cock your knee out to the side the wind is coming from. How far you put your knee out depends on the wind strength, this practice disrupts the air flow on that side of the bike and creates drag naturally pulling the bike towards the wind. Do try this method for yourself, as a gust of wind hits you from the side the drag is increased and reduces the effect of the wind. 

Normal method

There are a couple of things that you can do to make the experience less stressful, however.  For example, you can quit white-knuckling your grips. When you hold on tight you also tend to stiff arm your controls. This merely allows front-end instability to propagate into the rest of the motorcycle.  Relax your grips and droop your elbows.  Allow your bike to be a bit unstable.  Drive in the centre of your lane. Lean forward and down to reduce your profile, and snug up your jacket.

What about traction?  You neither gain nor lose any significant traction when the wind blows from your side unless you are in a curve.   While you are leaned into the wind all of the weight of the bike remains on your tires and there is very little lateral force scrubbing that traction away.

Should you anticipate those gusts?  Should you just respond quickly to a gust in order to remain in control and travelling in a straight line?  No, and no.  Your bike will NOT travel in a straight line.  That is, as long as you allow it to do its thing, your bike will be modestly blown off course with a gust and the result of that movement is EXACTLY the same as any other minor course change - you will need modest counter-steer input to correct it - the CG of your bike will then be on the side the wind came from and the result is that it will lean towards the wind.

[Anticipating wind-sheer IS important under a couple of scenarios:  the approach of an oncoming large vehicle suggests that severe buffeting will occur when you pass it, and entering or exiting stretches protected from the wind such as cuttings or bridges with relatively high retaining walls.  In these cases you will certainly want to position the bike away from the source of the wind-sheer and insure you maintain a firm grip.]

Is a heavier bike less likely to be blown around than a lighter bike?  Not necessarily.  What is primarily determinant of how great the effect of a crosswind is on your bike is its profile.

Can you mitigate some of that instability in any way? Yes.  There are cowling additions that can be designed (some are available off the shelf - called 'belly pans') that streamline the airflow under your bike and help (modestly) to reduce crosswind handling problems.

Your side profile area is what determines how your motorcycle reacts to crosswinds.  Just as there is a Centre of Gravity, there is also a Centre of wind resistance.  If that centre of wind resistance is in front of your Centre of Gravity then crosswinds will tend to push you off course while if it is behind your Centre of Gravity the motorcycle will try to steer INTO the wind. Thus, mounting a high profile LIGHT object (a stuffed animal, for example) onto your trunk lid or your pillion can have a dramatically corrective effect rather than worsen the bike's steering reaction to those crosswinds.

Crosswinds can be murder if you are leaned way over in a curve.  Don't, if you can avoid it.

As a result of a crosswind your bike will move off course and normal modest counter-steer will lean it into the wind.  A strong gust will blow you out of track.  So, correct your steering, gently, and keep going. 

Note ... there are TWO times when a gusty crosswind changes your bike's direction of travel:  when it hits, and when it stops.  Both require that you allow the bike to respond and use normal modest counter-steering.  (When it quits you will be leaned over and, as a result, your bike will move towards where the wind WAS coming from until you straighten it up.

If crosswinds involve huge short gusts, go park the bike.  If the crosswinds are more sustained, pucker up and keep going.

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Leave The No-Doze at Home

Drugs and stimulants don't work. If you need stimulants to keep you awake, including coffee, tea, or other caffeine shocks, you shouldn't be riding. A good sign of fatigue is an inability to maintain positioning in your lane or difficulty in maintaining a set speed. You want to be riding a long time.... Protect that right by riding only when your senses are sharp.

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Pack it Right

The right way to pack is as important as what to pack. Make sure that your load is centred, stable, and that only the right stuff is loaded. A good rule of thumb is as follows: You can't get very far if your bike breaks down, so bike maintenance items should take priority. Second priority should be personal comfort items, including motorcycle riding gear and camping items. Third on the agenda are things that you'd like to take, but aren't quite sure if they will fit, like portable washing machines, hair dryers, etc.... Part of the fun is knowing what to pack, and what not to pack.

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Practice Your Art

The only way to keep your skills honed is to ride and practice. While riding pick out spots on the road and imagine them to be debris. Practice avoiding such spots and other make-believe obstacles (don't try real ones, such as people please). Following at a safe distance is a good way of increasing your reaction time to such obstacles. The finer arts of riding can be obtained by practicing slow speed drills. Most  spills happen during low speed manoeuvres, such as parking or making U-turns. Another tip is to treat every turn as if sand were there. Don't trust the surface to provide friction unless you've been through it already. This is especially true at intersections, but is equally likely on any corner where cars or truck tires push around dirt.

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A Healthy Paranoia

Trust no-one.  Whether you call it aggressive defence or paranoid driving, just do it! The best way is to learn the proper techniques through the Motorcycle  advanced rider's courses. Scanning is the number one best way to stay out of trouble. If you see a target in front, to the side, or behind you develop the knack of making mental notes of their possible actions and your reactions. And if anything remotely smells of trouble, cover your brakes. The plus side is that while you can get into some sticky situations, a twist of the wrist can often get you out of them.

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Be Seen

Trust no one! The best way to avoid placing any trust in other vehicles is to stay away from them. This includes placing a buffer zone around your bike and maintaining it. By protecting your safe zone you maintain visibility and increase the chances of your anticipating any unforeseen events. This is a difficult feat in heavy traffic. At the very least avoid travelling directly behind trucks. When you do you are placing your future in that driver's hands and minimize any possibility of you avoiding objects in your path.

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Dress it Right and Cover Down

Proper dress can save your skin. This is a difficult feat amidst blistering summer temperatures, but while those shorts may be nice and cool, they lend little protection in a fall. When the temperature climbs above 30 degrees in high humidity or 35 degrees in low humidity it is downright uncomfortable riding in leathers and a helmet. If you commute, try avoiding the hottest parts of the day. Most of this discussion goes away in the winter, since we all don whatever windproof apparel we have. But in the summer we continually witness riders in shorts, without shirts on and using thongs as their feet armour. I don't think these riders have ever witnessed what happens to human flesh after it slides 20 to 30 metres on the tarmac.

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Position Yourself

If the car you're following has its left turn signal on, move over to the right side of the lane. This allows the cars following you to see without obstruction the turn signal of the car ahead and warns them of stopped vehicles up in front. If the car you're tailing has its right turn signal on, move over to the left side of the lane. This again permits cars following to see more clearly. But just before you stop behind the car, move over to the right hand side of the lane. Being stopped behind the car on the right hand side offers an escape route if in fact the cars behind do not stop in time to avoid a collision.

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What you can't see can hurt you

Blind corners have claimed many motorcyclists. A good survival rule of thumb is never to rely solely on signs. If you've never been on the roads you are ridging on, you are, in essence, a rookie. And rookies should never push it to the limit. Rarely do signs warn of gravel in the middle of the turn, off-camber turns or decreasing radius turns. Local riders will know every inch of each turn, but you won't. Twisters are the greatest invention since sliced bread, but a sliced rider can't twisty.

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What's new can kill you

What's worse than having a new rider on a bike they've never ridden? -- Perhaps a new bike that an experienced rider hasn't ridden. Just because you've conquered your last bike doesn't mean that you can ride anything. Unfortunately, experienced riders often forget to be humble when handling a new toy. Different throttle responses, braking tendencies, cornering ability, centre of gravity, and ergonomics can really throw you off. Treat any bike you haven't mastered with respect. If you don't, you may find they bite as hard as they bark.

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It's the Slow Stuff We Tend to Forget

The first skill to deteriorate after months out of the saddle is the slow speed stuff. What you'll find is that slow speed skills are directly transferable to the high-speed stuff. Perhaps the most essential survival skill is quick braking. If you've never panic stopped your bike, how do you know you'll perform under pressure. Learn to know the warning signs of front and rear wheel lock. Stopping quickly is a good thing. Doing a stoppy over the handlebars is as uncool as sliding 30 metres on the rear tire.

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You Go Where You Look

Survival instincts lure us to look at danger areas in the road, such as obstacles in our path or at the outside of turns in which we are running wide into. Your bike will go where you look. Rather than look where the danger is, try looking where the danger isn't. This will prevent you from fixating on the danger area, and keep you out of harm's way.

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Huh?

Wear ear plugs, this piece of gear is essential for a lifetime's worth of safe riding. Wind noise at highway speeds is in excess of 110 decibels. For perspective, a noisy restaurant produces about 80 db of noise, a rock band about 110 db, a car horn about 115 db, and a gunshot about 140 db. Helmets alone cannot prevent long-term hearing loss. Experts say hearing loss can begin at 90 db. Max safe exposure at 110 db is 1 hour, and only 15 minutes to sounds in excess of 115 db. Unless you want to spend the rest of your life saying "huh?" protect your hearing.

 

 

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Last modified: 02/09/06