
Machine sew calico (muslin) on all four sides of the piece. Each piece of calico is slightly longer than the image size. Do not fill in the corner.
It is best for the calico to be wide enough to fold over the backing and meet in the middle. It can be trimmed before beginning lacing.

Piece is face down with backing in place. A pin or two can be placed into the edge of the backing, top and bottom to hold piece in place. It is not necessary to be absolutely accurate with placement of the piece on the backing as it is easy to centre using a rubber glove after first tension has been applied.
Calico is then folded over top and bottom and trimmed so that there is about one inch between the two edges.
Needle goes through first side about half an inch away from edge of backing (A), and about one inch from the edge of the calico (B). Pass the needle through diagonally.
This is where the thread will be tied off after tension is applied. When a knot is tied here it will tie both warp and weft threads in the calico.
I prefer a mattress needle because is it easy to go in and out of the calico a short distance apart.

Pass the needle through the calico on the opposite side, in and out about one quarter of an inch apart (A) then cross back to the original side. Leave about three quarters to one inch space from the first stitch and subsequent stitches (B).
Repeat the process right across.
On wide pieces it will be necessary to feed more thread through occassionally. The lacing should consist of ONE continuous thread without any joins. I usually lace about 3 feet of thread through then pull another 3 feet through and continue lacing again.



Rotate the piece 180 degrees so that this knot is now on the left.
Tension should be applied in two or three applications across, not all in one application. Different backing fabrics require different amounts of tension.
Begin to apply tension by pulling down on the right hand thread of the first pair (A)
Press down at (B) so that tension already applied does not release, then pull down on (C).
Repeat this process right across.


Turn over and using a rubber or latex glove, gently straighten the lines of the fabric as much as possible.
Turn over to the lacing again and apply more tension and retie slip knot.
Turn over to the front again and straighten lines using rubber glove.
Turn over to the lacing and apply a little more tension before tieing off thread permanently.
Some larger, heavy tapestries may need more applications of tension and straightening than smaller. lightweight pieces. It is better to do this in several applications rather than trying to apply the full tension in one go.
Tie off with a slip knot so that it can be undone easily.

When the tension and straightening is done to your satisfaction, turn the piece around 90 degrees and fold the other two flaps of calico into the centre.
Do not do any complicated folds or seams in the corners. They are unnecessary and can cause unwanted problems.





Using a rubber glove straighten the lines of the fabric on all four edges to complete the process.
My apologies for some of the pictures being out of focus. I will replace these will new images soon.
Please email me with any questions you have and any suggestions to make the instructions easier to follow. Also if there are any parts which you find difficult to understand please tell me.
I hope this will help you to get into lacing needlework. I have been doing it this way since 1985 and have done approximately two thousand pieces in that time. I have found it to be easy to do and gives excellent results and is completely reversible.
(Copyright by Ormond Williams (Osgood), Ormonds Framing, 7a Bellbowrie Park, Port Macquarie NSW 2444, Australia)