Freshwater Fish of the Sydney Region
Native Fish
Small Fish
Pacific Blue-eye Pseudomugil signifer size: 3-5cm Tank, Pond, (FF) Common		Australian Smelt Retropinna semoni size: 5-6cm Tank, Pond, FF Common		Glass Perchlett Ambassis marianus size: 6cm Tank, Pond Uncommon		Nepean Herring Potamalosa richmondia size: 15cm Abundant		Dwarf Flathead Gudgeon Philypnodon sp. Size: 3.5-4cm Tank, Pond Common
Gudgeons
Empire Gudgeon Hypseleotris compressa size: to 12cm Tank, Pond Abundant		Firetail Gudgeon Hypseleotris galii size: 4-5cm Tank, Pond, FF Locally Common		Striped Gudgeon Gobiomorphus australis size: 12cm Tank, Pond Common		Cox's Gudgeon Gobiomorphus coxii size: 15cm Tank Common		Flathead Gudgeon Philypnodon grandiceps size: 8cm Tank, Pond Common
Medium Fish
Bullrout Notesthes robusta size: 20cm (Tank) Common but cryptic		Climbing Galaxias Galaxias brevipinnis size: 15cm Localised		Common Jollytail Galaxias maculatus size: 10cm Tank, Pond Rare		Mountain Galaxias Galaxias olidus size: 6-8cm Tank, Pond Localised		Freshwater Catfish Tandanus tandanus size: 45cm Tank, (Pond) Rare / Introduced
Large Fish
Short Finned Eel Anguilla australis Size: to 90cm Angling Uncommon / possibly declining		Marbled Eel / Long Finned Eel Anguilla reinhardtii Size: 100cm Angling Common		Macquarie Perch Macquaria australasica size: 20-25cm Protected Rare / Localised		Australian Bass Macquaria novemaculeata size: to 60cm Angling Common		Freshwater Mullet Myxus petardi size: 40cm Angling Uncommon
Introduced / Pest Fish		These fish represent major threats to native fish & aquatic wildlife. They should not be kept, spread, or returned to any water bodies.
Plague Minnow, Gambusia Gambusia holbrooki size: 3.5-6cm		Carp Cyprinus carpio size: 30-40cm		Redfin Perch Perca fluviatilis size: 40-45cm		Wild Goldfish Carassius auratus size: 10-20cm		Spotted Livebearer Phalloceros caudimaculatus reticulatus size: 3cm
Key : The details are for the fish typically found in the greater Sydney area. Size is that of a typical adult fish. Young fish will be smaller than indicated and some older adult specimens can be somewhat larger. Tank = fish is a suitable aquarium fish, Pond = fish is suitable for garden ponds, FF = Frog Friendly fish - fish does not actively prey on tadpoles, Angling = fish is suitable for recreational angling (fishing licence required), Protected = fish is protected & must be returned if caught.
Images courtesy of : Rudie Kuiter, Andrew Lo, Mathew Stanton, Dan Nehl, & Mark Abell
						www.angfa-nsw.org.au		Copyright 2003 - ANGFA NSW

Guidelines for a Native Fish Pond

A well setup pond can offer many benefits. It is visually appealing, can be cool & relaxing, and provides a watering point for the local wildlife.

Before you start...

Before actual construction begins please take a little time to consider the purpose that you have in mind for your particular pond. Too often the comfort and safety of the inhabitants is the last thing rather than the first to be evaluated.

There are any number of reasonably inexpensive books available on techniques of construction as well as pond kits & contractors out there with experience in the field, but many of us prefer to do it ourselves so below are a few points to consider in the planning stages.

Location...

• Site the pond away from existing large trees to avoid root problems and minimise the problem of leaves falling in, decaying and causing poor water quality.
• Also it should not be sited in full sun (can overheat on hot days), but in a semi shaded location with good light, but protected from the hot mid afternoon sun.
• If keeping fish is an important purpose, try to make the pond as large and as deep as practical to minimise temperature extremes in the pond - check with your local council as to the maximum depth allowed (deeper ponds may need to be fenced).

Design Features...

• Remember when designing your pond to consider water supply and drainage as well as electricity supply for lights, pumps and filters.
• The pond should have an overflow area (a place a little below the rest of the pond height) included. This is to control where the water overflows to (either through heavy rain or from overfilling).
• All overflows should be screened to prevent escape of plants, snails, fish and eggs during heavy rains and water additions. As well as keeping your fish in the pond this serves to protect the local waterways from any potential escapes (especially important if non local fish are in the pond).

Preparation...

• Fish are very sensitive to contaminants so new ponds should be rinsed out before use. Plastic liner ponds can be cleaned with salt and water. Concrete ponds need "curing" with a combination of filling, scrubbing and painting with vinegar as well as several water changes.
• If filling with tap water remember to allow time for the chlorine & chloramine in the water to dissipate or use a commercial chlorine neutraliser from the pet shop.
• Before adding plants and fish ensure that all equipment such as filters, fountains and waterfalls are working satisfactorily.
• Allow at least a week for plants to settle in and begin growing before adding fish. If possible remove all obviously dead leaves as they will add decay and add unwanted excess nutrients to the water.

Plants...

• Native plant nurseries & water garden nurseries will have a range of suitable native plants for planting in and around the pond.
• Allowing plenty of shallows around the edges will allow inclusion of a variety of moisture-loving marginal plants such as reeds and sedges and ground covers. These improve the appearance, provide shelter for inhabitants and aid water quality.
• Consider having all your in-pond plants in containers as this will greatly facilitate their removal during routine maintenance such as leaf & litter removal and reduces stress and damage to the plants.

Fish...

• The most suitable and readily obtainable Sydney area fish are :- Pacific Blue-Eyes, Firetail Gudgeons, Empire Gudgeons, & Smelt. The other pond fish indicated on the poster may be harder to find.
• Fish can be most readily obtained from aquarium shops, some native plant nurseries & water garden suppliers.
• When introducing your fish remember to float the bags or buckets to equalise the temperature and add frequent small amounts of pond water to adjust other water parameters before gently releasing the fish.
• Do not feed your fish initially for 2 days to allow them to settle in and become active and hungry - then only feed them once each day with as much as they can consume in 2-3 minutes. More pet fish are killed by over-feeding than any other cause.

Frogs...

• If you intend to attract frogs around the pond, then the pond should be sited a little away from houses - frogs can make a bit of noise on warm evenings.
• The pond should have a gently sloping side to allow non climbing frogs to access the pond.
• Rocks & slabs overhanging the edge can stop frogs from being able to exit, so some gaps may be needed.
• Plenty of plants should be added to and around the pond - to provide shelter for frogs & tadpoles.
• All fish will to a certain extent prey on very small tadpoles. The fish on the poster that are marked as Frog Friendly (Pacific Blue-Eye, Australian Smelt, & Firetail Gudgeon) are more likely to leave tadpoles alone & will not prey on larger tadpoles.
• You will not be able to keep any tadpoles if there are any Plague Minnows (Gambusia) in the pond. These fish are a major pest & threat to frog populations.
• Further information on frogs & ponds can be obtained from the FATS (Frog And Tadpole Study Group). www.fats.org.au

Maintenance...

In addition to feeding any fish and regular cleaning of any filters, there are a number of other tasks that will need to be done periodically.

The pond will need to be periodically cleaned of dead leaves & fallen vegetation. This "mulm" can simply be scooped out by hand - it makes good compost. The frequency of cleaning will vary depending on time of year and the amount of vegetation falling into the water. At the very least it should be done at the start of spring prior to the water temperatures starting to rise. The increased biological activity from the rotting vegetation & warmer temperatures is a major cause of fish losses at this time of year.

Periodically the water in the pond will need to be topped up. This can be done using a normal garden hose, but due to the chlorine levels in tap water no more than 10-20% should be added at any time.

Further advice on ponds, aquaria and fishkeeping is available from your local aquarium shop, water garden supplier, books, the internet and local aquarium societies.